SKU: SKTKM1231PKBH1
$5,750.00
Chamber Opening: 28" Dodecagon
Chamber Depth: 31"
Cubic Footage: 11.6 cu ft
Max Firing Temp: Cone 10
Controller Options
After years of refinement, Skutt has introduced the new Touchscreen controller, with built-in WiFi!
Like Your Smartphone, the new KMT controller navigates with just a touch of a finger and allows us to guide you through programming with full sentences, helpful icons, and dynamic navigation.
Built-in WiFi makes it possible to download any software feature upgrades for free so it is like having a new Kiln Controller for the life of the kiln.
A Free App works in conjunction with the WiFi and allows you to monitor your kiln temperature and status from your smartphone. Think how comforting it will be not to get out of bed to be sure your kiln shut off as expected.
The Hinged Controller allows you to move the controller up and down to an angle that is comfortable for you to program. No more getting on your hands and knees. After programming you can push it back down so it is out of your way and easy to view from across the room.
It has the Same Functions you have come to know and love from the standard KilnMaster Controller Plus More!
The KilnMaster controller has long been considered the standard of the industry. This controller comes with most of the features available on the new KilnMaster Touchscreen controller but does not include WiFi, an App for remote viewing, or Help Screens.
Whether you are doing a simple bisque firing or programming your own 10 segment program, the KilnMaster controller is intuitive and easy to use. The folks over at Skutt spent a lot of time designing a layout that allows access to all the features efficiently. Even if you have never programmed a kiln before, you will feel like an expert in no time at all.
With ConeFire Mode you just enter 4 pieces of data Preheat Time, Cone Value, Firing Speed, and Peak Temperature Hold Time. The controller then chooses a program for you that was designed by ceramic engineers for optimum results. It even has Cone Correlation built in that will adjust your ending temperature up or down based on the kilns performance to ensure the perfect amount of heatwork.
The Preheat feature gives you the option to preheat your unfired pieces to make sure there is no residual moisture in the clay that can cause damage to the ware.
You can even turn on a feature now that lets you add a slow cooling ramp to your firing schedule that produces interesting glaze effects. It is appropriately named the COOL feature.
We’ve taken things a touch more into the future for our smaller kiln models. Moving from the 3-Button Controller to the Mini Touchscreen was a no-brainer. This controller has nearly all the features of the full-sized KMT controller and is just as easy to program. The GlazeTech, Firebox 8×6 and Firebox 8×4 models are now manufactured with the Mini Touchscreen Controller.
Current Sensing
Traditionaly, when your kiln is not firing correctly, it is necessary to open the control box and take some electrical readings to diagnose the problem. Since most people do not have the test equipment or are not qualified to take live electrical readings from a kiln, this usually requires hiring a trained technician to come out and diagnose the problem. This can take time to schedule and cost a significant amount of money.Skutt is one of the few companies that installs that technician right in the kiln in the form of a Current Sensor. A current sensor is a small donut shaped device that can read current (Amperage) when one leg of a circuit is passed through it.
Being able to sense current is one of the best tools for diagnosing your kiln and this tool is accessed easily from the Menu key on your controller. This allows you to provide your service technician the information he or she needs without having to make an additional service call. This way they can order the needed parts and come out once to install them.
The circuit board can also check the voltage supply powering the kiln. It firsts checks it with a the kiln drawing power. This will tell you if the supply matches the voltage for which the kiln was designed. It then measures the voltage with the kiln own. This can indicate problems with the electrical installation from the breaker box to the outlet. If the voltage drops significantly when the kiln is turned on it can be an indication that the wire gauge is not adequate given the draw of the kiln or the distance from the breaker box to the outlet.
Sectional Design
Do we have it? Heck we invented it! Skutt was the pioneer of sectional kiln building over 50 years ago. That means we have had 50 years to perfect sectional design. Many have copied this design due to it’s popularity but none can match our quality. The sectional design allows the owner to quickly disassemble the kiln for moving or repair. This design brought Ceramics into the home. It’s light weight coupled with the ability to break down into smaller sections made it possible to move a kiln through a narrow doorway or down a flight of stairs.
With a sectional kiln you can get right to the part you need to replace. The hinged control box was designed to give you quick access to replacing the thermocouple without needing to balance the box on your leg. It also comes completely off to allow you to separate the sections. The wires that attach to the box are numbered and connected with slide on connectors. These provide a secure fit but also make removing and replacing them a snap. Once the sections are apart you can access any brick or element without having to crawl into your kiln.
Balanced Elements
Nearly all Skutt kilns have Computer Balanced Elements. This means we design the elements so that more heat is put in areas of the kiln that naturally fire cooler. The top and bottom of the kiln lose heat faster than the center so Skutt puts hotter elements (more power) in those areas.
The figures to the right indicate how a kiln with Balanced Elements will take a naturally unbalanced chamber and adjust it to be balanced.
This also has an impact on the efficiency and capability of Zone Control. By balancing the heat in the chamber to start, Zone Control does not have to work as hard. You have less cycling (zones turning on and off to balance the heat) and when the kiln does need to cycle the power, it is distributed efficiently into the areas that need it the most.
The bottom line is money saved on electricity, tighter controls, and faster turn around times.
It is always recommended to have an element between each shelf. This is because the radiant heat from the elements needs a clear path to heat up the ware in the chambers that are formed between each shelf.
It is much easier to load a kiln with 2 element grooves per brick because you have so many more options for shelf placement. The figure to the right indicates how you could get in
trouble with a 1 element groove per brick design.
If there is not an element between the shelves, the heat must soak through the shelves to heat those chambers. Since the effect of this is more dramatic at lower temperatures this could be disastrous when candling or going through quartz inversion.
The effect is compounded even further when the thermocouple is located in an area that is blocked. When the thermocouple is in this position it will read cooler than the other sections and therefore the sections with an element radiating into them will get significantly hotter.
There are many aspects of element design that affect the performance and life of the element. The watt density, pitch, and gauge must be perfectly balanced to achieve the best results.
One limiting factor to element design can be having enough room to put the proper amount and gauge of wire. That is one of the reasons why Skutt makes sure each brick has 2 element grooves. More grooves give you more design options and fewer concessions need to be made.
Most manufacturers try to use the heaviest gauge of element wire possible to increase element life. The thicker the wire the cooler it will run therefore you need to use more of it to get enough power in the kiln to heat it to temperature. With only 1 element groove per brick you cannot always do this and you are forced to use a lighter gauge wire. Just because a company says they have “Heavy Duty Elements” doesn’t mean that they are actually using heavy gauge elements.
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Precision Thermocouples
Row content
At Skutt we believe in giving the customer the choice to match the thermocouple that best suits your needs.
There are currently 4 types of thermocouples used on the market today and each have their advantages. For more detailed information on choosing a thermocouple read What is a Thermocouple and How To Evaluate Thermocouples.
Recommended Applications – Low Fire Ceramics. Occasional High Fire OK.
Recommended Applications – High Fire Ceramics and Applications where high precision is critical.
Recommended Applications – Low Fire Ceramics and Glass
Important – Type S thermocouples may only be used with a Type S controller and Type S thermocouple lead wire and vice-a-versa. Misuse could result in an overfire.
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A thermocouple is a component of the kiln used to read the temperature within the kiln chamber. The controller uses the information it receives from the thermocouple and makes decisions on whether or not to turn the element on or off. Your oven at home most likely has a thermocouple that performs the very same function.
The thermocouple is constructed of 2 pieces of dissimilar metal (usually wire) that are joined together at one end. When heated this junction creates a very small electrical signal (measured in millivolts) that changes as the temperature is raised or lowered. Since the signal moves predictably it can be converted by the controller into a temperature reading.
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The Accuracy of a thermocouple is measured by the difference between what a thermocouple is reading and the actual temperature of the chamber. This is measured when the kiln is at a steady state (not ramping up or down).
A Type S thermocouple is considered to be the most accurate thermocouple and is therefore used as the standard to measure against. The material used to construct a Type S thermocouple will not degrade in most atmospheres and therefore the thermocouple will not drift with age.
Type K thermocouple wire is also very accurate however as the wire degrades the thermocouple will began to drift towards an overfire. This is a gradual process and is not something to be concerned about. Use self supporting Pyrometric cones to monitor your firings and indicate when it is time to change the thermocouple.
High mass protection tubes can also affect the accuracy of a thermocouple even during a long soak. This is because the end of the tube that is not exposed to the kiln chamber wicks heat through conduction causing a falsely low reading (see Illustration). This will cause the kiln to fire too high. The higher the temperature the more dramatic the effect.
You can compensate for this affect by entering Cone offsets (altering cone correlation temperatures in Cone Fire Mode) however this must be done for every cone value and does not compensate for temperature ranges prior to cone correlation.
The Responsiveness of a thermocouple is determined by the accuracy of the thermocouple while the kiln is increasing or decreasing in temperature. This is determined primarily by the type and mass of the protection tube used if any. The greater the mass of the protection tube the less responsive the thermocouple becomes.
Thermocouples that are not responsive will lag behind the actual temperature of the kiln when it is ramping up. Since the controller thinks the kiln is cooler than it actually is, this will cause the kiln to overshoot the desired temperature. Generally, the faster the rate the more dramatic the overshoot.
This can be compensated for by entering thermocouple offsets (tricking the controller to read a higher temperature than the thermocouple is indicating), however once the kiln enters a soaking temperature the temperature balances out and the actual temperature of the kiln will be too low. For obvious reasons this is not recommended.
The life of a thermocouple, how long it lasts, can be affected by a multitude of factors. The most influential factors are Wire Type (see Wire Type section) and temperature. The temperature range in which it is used can have a huge impact on the life of the thermocouple. For example, a thermocouple used at glass temperatures may last for over 1000 firings where the same thermocouple used at cone 10 may only last for 20 firings.
The life of the thermocouple will also be affected by the gauge of thermocouple, and gases it is exposed to from clay and glazes.
Durability is determined mostly by the thermocouples impact resistance. In certain applications, especially when inexperienced people are loading the kilns, it is possible to bump the thermocouple with a piece of ware or a shelf. The stronger the thermocouple the more it will hold up to this abuse.
Type K thermocouples will oxidize as they age. If a protection tube is not used they will drop small black particles below the thermocouple. This is generally not a problem since the thermocouples do not protrude too far into the kiln chamber and the particles drop straight down. It will be necessary to vacuum the kiln chamber occasionally. Type S thermocouples will not flake however a protection tube is needed for dimensional stability.
Type S thermocouples are approximately 20 times more expensive than Type K thermocouples due to the materials used to make them. At Skutt we give you a spare type K thermocouple with every purchase of a new Skutt Kiln therefore your initial cost per firing is cut in half. Since a Type S thermocouple will virtually last forever, unless you break it, your cost per firing decreases with every firing.
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Advanced Packaging
We have been using Expanding Foam packaging with heavy gauge corrugated for over 30 years. This method of packaging forms perfectly to the kiln. It protects the kiln from impact and prevents the kiln from shifting within the box. This means fewer freight claims which we all know can be a severe time drain. If there is a freight claim you can be assured that it will not be declined due to improper packaging.
Lid Lifter
The New Lid Lifter makes our 10 and 12-sided lids some of the lightest on the market. In fact, you can now lift them with just a finger. The lid brace has been redesigned for added strength and now has 2 positions. The innovative Center Pivot Design distributes the force on the lid across 2 points as opposed to only one.
It ships fully assembled on the kiln. And unlike some other brands there is no awkward loading of the springs required. The kiln remains completely sectional for moving and repairs. The lid can be effortlessly and safely detensioned by simply raising the lid and sliding out the tension rod. It really is that easy!
The new ceramic handle has a high temperature powder coating that remains cool enough to handle while the kiln is firing. All parts used in the construction are corrosion resistant, which is especially important for components that are exposed to fumes that may come out of the lid.
The upgrade kit is available to upgrade existing models in the field. We specifically designed the Lid Lifter to be easily and quickly retrofitted in the field. The Lid Lifter will be available as an option on the 10 and 12-sided GM kilns (Glass Kilns).
Instructional Video
Every KilnMaster kiln comes with an instructional video which will guide you from setting up your kiln all the way through programming your first firing.
Unlike many appliances, kilns are designed to run on a specific voltage, either 240V or 208V. Therefore, it is extremely important to order the kiln that matches the supply. We can design units that run on either 1 phase or 3 phase power supplies. They cannot be easily or cheaply converted, so as with voltage, make sure you order a unit that matches your phase supply. Certain models have a lower temperature rating when hooked up to 208V/1 phase supply, so if you have a choice, you may want to consider using a different supply or a different kiln model.
| MODEL | PHASE | VOLTS | AMPS | WATTS | NEMA RECEPTACLE | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| * Wire Gauge recommendations are based on National Electric Code Requirements. Consult your electrician for your specific installation. |  |
||||||
| KM-1227 | 1 | 240V | 48A | 11520W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1227 | 1 | 208V | 48A | 9984W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1227 | 3 | 240V | 29.3A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1227 | 3 | 208V | 31.7A | 11000W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1027 | 1 | 240V | 48A | 11520W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1027 | 1 | 208V | 48A | 9984W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1027 | 3 | 240V | 29.3A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1027 | 3 | 208V | 31.7A | 11000W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1027-3 | 1 | 240V | 48A | 11520W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1027-3 | 1 | 208V | 48A | 9984W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1027-3 | 3 | 240V | 29.3A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1027-3 | 3 | 208V | 31.7A | 11000W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1018 | 1 | 240V | 39.4A | 9460W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1018 | 1 | 208V | 40A | 8320W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1018-3 | 1 | 240V | 39.4A | 9460W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1018-3 | 1 | 208V | 40A | 8320W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-818 | 1 | 240V | 26.7A | 6400W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-818 | 1 | 208V | 26.7A | 5550W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-818-3 | 1 | 240V | 26.7A | 6400W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-818-3 | 1 | 208V | 26.7A | 5550W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-818-30A-3 | 1 | 240V | 21.7A | 5200W | 6-30 | ||
| KM-818-30A-3 | 1 | 208V | 24A | 4990W | 6-30 | ||
| KM-714 | 1 | 120/208-240V | 20A | 3600W | 14-30 | ||
| KM-614 | 1 | 115V | 20A | 2300W | 5-20 | ||
| KM-1227PK | 1 | 208V | 69A | 14300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1227PK | 1 | 240V | 60A | 14300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1227PK | 3 | 240V | 40A | 14300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1227PK | 3 | 208V | 46.7A | 14300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1231PK | 3 | 240V | 44.5A | 17300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1231PK | 3 | 208V | 51.5A | 17300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1231PK | 1 | 240V | 72A | 17300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1231PK | 1 | 208V | 80A | 16640W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1627PKLF | 1 | 240V | 68A | 16300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1627PKLF | 1 | 208V | 69A | 14300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1627PKLF | 3 | 240V | 46A | 16300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1627PKLF | 3 | 208V | 47A | 14300W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1627PK | 3 | 240V | 66A | 23600W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1627PK | 3 | 208V | 76A | 23600W | Direct Wire | ||
| KM-1218 | 1 | 240V | 48A | 11520W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1218 | 1 | 208V | 48A | 9984W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1218 | 3 | 240V | 29.3A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1218 | 3 | 208V | 29.5A | 9984W | 15-50 | ||
| GLAZETECH | 1 | 240V | 17A | 4000W | 6-20 | ||
| GLAZETECH | 1 | 208V | 20A | 4000W | 6-30 | ||
| KM-1222 | 1 | 240V | 48A | 11520W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1222 | 1 | 208V | 48A | 9984W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1222 | 3 | 240V | 34.6A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1222 | 3 | 208V | 40A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1022 | 1 | 240V | 48A | 11520W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1022 | 1 | 208V | 48A | 9984W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1022 | 3 | 240V | 34.6A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1022 | 3 | 208V | 34.6A | 9984W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1022-3 | 1 | 240V | 48A | 11520W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1022-3 | 1 | 208V | 48A | 9984W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1022-3 | 3 | 240V | 34.6A | 11520W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-1022-3 | 3 | 208V | 34.6A | 9984W | 15-50 | ||
| KM-822 | 1 | 240V | 33.4A | 8000W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-822 | 1 | 208V | 38.5A | 8000W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-822-3 | 1 | 240V | 33.4A | 8000W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-822-3 | 1 | 208V | 38.5A | 8000W | 6-50 | ||
| KM-1427-3 | 1 | 240V | 80A | 19000W | Hardwired | ||
| KM-1427-3 | 1 | 208V | 80A | 16640W | Hardwired | ||
| KM-1427-3 | 3 | 240V | 53A | 19000W | Hardwired | ||
| KM-1427-3 | 3 | 208V | 61A | 19000W | Hardwired | ||
