This Glaze Thinner is a solution of sodium hexametaphosphate in water. It is a very powerful thinning agent and should be added very sparingly. For example, 2 or 3 drops in a 4 oz. jar should have a significant effect. It is a useful product for thinning glazes, underglazes, etc. when you do not want to dilute the strength of the glaze by adding water.

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4 ounce jar Repairs ~ Add-ons ~ Attaching flowers, ribbons, etc. ~ Repairs to broken pieces ~ Fixing hairline cracks ~ Attaching greenware to greenware ~ Attaching greenware to bisque ~ Attaching bisque to bisque ~ Removing hard spots ~ Acts like a wood putty for larger area fill-ins. Directions: Do not wet the piece(s). Stir well, apply with brush to both sides. Press pieces together and hold until they stick together, then re-fire.

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2 ounce jar Repairs ~ Add-ons ~ Attaching flowrs, ribbons, etc. ~ Repairs to broken pieces ~ Fixing hairline cracks ~ Attaching greenware to greenware ~ Attaching greenware to bisque ~ Attaching bisque to bisque ~ Removing hard spots ~ Acts like a wood putty for larger area fill-ins. Directions: Fill to ridge above label with any high fire slip or clay and stir well. Do not wet the piece(s). Apply with brush to greenware or bisque. Let mender dry, clean, and then fire to normal slip/clay temperature.

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downloadable information sheet No more hard settled glazes, no more powdery glaze coatings, no more peeling glazes. All your suspension and application problems solved! Suspends ANY common glaze material, including dense granular materials, indefinitely. Works with or without clay - even zero clay formulations. Allows glaze carving and sgraffito without chipping. Allows unlimited layering of glaze or slip coats. Hardens unfired glaze and slip coatings. Does not change with age (requires preservative*). Does NOT deflucculate and cause curtaining and drips like CMC does. Almost completely burns away, leaving fired glaze or slip unaffected. For brush application, smooths application and hardens the coat like CMC but allows heavier brush loading and thicker coats than CMC. GLAZE/SLIP TYPE 100g batch (brushing) 100g batch 1000g batch 10,000g batch zero clay formula 0.7g 0.6g 6g 60g typical formula (10% clay) 0.6g 0.4g 4g 40g high clay formula 0.5g 0.3g 3g 30 For brushing glazes, increase recommendations by 0.1%. As a clay plasticizer, try 0.1% MAGMA. Two simple ways to add it to your slip or glaze: LIQUID GLAZE Add 40 grams MAGMA and 4 grams Copper Carbonate (CuCO3) to 8 ounces hot water. Wait approximately 6 hours. It will look like green goop. Add a little MAGMA gel to your liquid glaze - start with 1 teaspoon of MAGMA gel per pint of glaze. You can always add a more if you need it, but it’s better to err on the side of caution because MAGMA increases the drying time of the glaze. DRY GLAZE Determine appropriate quantity of MAGMA. Mix MAGMA powder with other dry ingredients. Add 0.04% (of total batch weight) Copper Carbonate (CuCO3) as a preservative unless Copper Carb is already included in the recipe. Example: 0.4g CuCO3 per 1000g dry glaze Add dry mix to normal amount of [hot] water for glaze batch. Glaze will be a little thicker than you are used to. Wait a few hours before sieving. Always glaze the outside surface first when using a glaze with MAGMA or any other additive. Recommended preservative: If you plan to store glaze mixed with water for more than one week, add Copper Carbonate (CuCO3), 0.04% of total dry batch (0.4g CuCO3 per 1000g dry glaze). The vast majority of glazes will not show any coloration from this small amount of copper, but it will prevent the gum from rotting. Test before mixing a full batch. CAUTION: MAGMA will dramatically thicken any glaze it is added to. Thinning the glaze to a “normal” consistency will cause very thin coats. MAGMA containing glazes must have more viscosity than typical glazes. MAGMA glazes also take more time to “dry” (the water moves into the bisque slower) after dipping or spraying. If high viscosity glazes will not work for you, and/or slow setting or drying glazes will not work for you, you should not use MAGMA.

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Mr. Mark's Removable Wax Off Resist is a wax we have created for potters and decorative artists. It is designed to be painted on like regular wax, but can easily be peeled away. The removal is simple and can be done in a short period of time. This allows for endless possibilities in design as well as layering. Our Wax Off! Resist drys in 5-10 minutes depending on how thick you put it on. It drys darker than it appears when wet (so you know when it's ready). It can even be applied to spots on your bisque ware that have already been dipped in glaze without lifting away the glaze. On top of all that it's affordable! You will never have to be afraid of dripping wax on your pots and being stuck with a waxing mistake again: now you can just peel it away! Helpful Hint: By resting your brush in soapy water while you are working with Wax Off, you will preserve the life of your brush. Clean your brushes with soap and water after use. Dish soap works great. There are no commercial preservatives in this product to prevent it from freezing. If your area of the world is freezing this product when exposed may harden. There are no refunds if this happens. Please be aware of your local weather.

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Aftosa Wax Resist is used to resist glazes. It should be thinned with water to suit the potter's use. The wax is applied to the base and rims of the pieces before glazing. Allow the wax three to four hours to dry before glazing (some clean up with a sponge may be required) or before adding a second coat. Aftosa Wax Resist is also excellent for use in decorating pottery. Although Aftosa Wax Resist is tinted green so it is easy to see while you are working with it, the Wax Resist fires clear and the Black Wax Resist leaves a black line after being fired. The wax has a shelf life of 2-3 years. If used improperly, it can become contaminated. Always keep the lid tight on the original container. Pour a small amount in a separate container, use as desired, and dispose of the excess. Do NOT pour wax back into the original container. If the wax has a strong, sour odor, it has been contaminated. Clean up is easy with warm, soapy water. Please Note: The Wax will FREEZE in cold climates and will not resist effectively. If the wax has frozen, it will get lumpy and separate. Wax Resist will be sent to cold regions in the winter only at the customer's risk.

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Aftosa Wax Resist is used to resist glazes. It should be thinned with water to suit the potter's use. The wax is applied to the base and rims of the pieces before glazing. Allow the wax three to four hours to dry before glazing (some clean up with a sponge may be required) or before adding a second coat. Aftosa Wax Resist is also excellent for use in decorating pottery. Although Aftosa Wax Resist is tinted green so it is easy to see while you are working with it, the Wax Resist fires clear and the Black Wax Resist leaves a black line after being fired. The wax has a shelf life of 2-3 years. If used improperly, it can become contaminated. Always keep the lid tight on the original container. Pour a small amount in a separate container, use as desired, and dispose of the excess. Do NOT pour wax back into the original container. If the wax has a strong, sour odor, it has been contaminated. Clean up is easy with warm, soapy water. 1. Trail or brush Black Wax Resist in desired pattern and allow to dry a minimum of 2 hours. 2. Apply glaze or slip by dipping or brushing. 3. Fire (cone 06-8). Results may vary - please test first. Please Note: The Wax will FREEZE in cold climates and will not resist effectively. If the wax has frozen, it will get lumpy and separate. Wax Resist will be sent to cold regions in the winter only at the customer's risk.

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Water based wax emulsion used for glaze decorating. Glaze will be resisted where wax is applied. Dries quickly on bisque and in a consistency favorable to brush work. Please Note: The Wax will FREEZE in cold climates and will not resist effectively. If the wax has frozen, it will get lumpy and separate. Wax Resist will be sent to cold regions in the winter only at the customer's risk.

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Na2SiO3 Deflocculant, De-flocculant Formula: Na2SiO3 Alternate Names: Waterglass OXIDE ANALYSIS FORMULA Na2O 50.78% 1.00 SiO2 49.22% 1.00 Density (Specific Gravity) 2.40 Melting Point (MP) 1080°C The most popular deflocculant used in casting slips for many years. It is nearly always used with soda ash (when employed alone it can make a slip 'stringy' and thixotropic). The material is effective, reliable and inexpensive. However, it attacks the plaster in molds much more than more modern deflocculants and it is easier to over-deflocculate a slip with sodium silicate. There are potassium based deflocculants that are similar to the corresponding sodium ones. They can be employed where the presence of sodium is undesirable. Soda ash is more suitable for deflocculating glazes. In addition, a wide range of organic deflocculants are available as alkali salts of pyrogallic, humic or tannic acids. They have long working ranges and can increase the apparent plasticity of the clay. As noted, their use prolongs mold life compared with sodium silicate and soda ash and they are less prone of over-deflocculation. Tetramethylammoniumhydroxide is also an organic compound that is used where residues from inorganic salts cannot be tolerated. It is a strong base that can even attack glass and quartz. Also used as a binder in ceramic bodies. ~ from Digitalfire Ceramic Materials Database

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WHEN USED AS RESIST FOR CERAMIC APPLICATION Latex resist is pre-mixed and ready to use as is, although you may thin it with water if necessary. Mix a little liquid dish soap with water and put into a container. Before using latex, wet your brush in the soapy water to help brushability and cleanup (after you’re finished, you can use the same soapy water to clean your brushes). Don’t use “good” brushes! Latex will eventually ruin your brushes, even if you take extraordinary care when cleaning up. Don’t wear good clothes when using latex. It will stain and won’t wash out of clothing. Apply one (1) thick coat of latex when used to resist glazes. Thinner coats may be difficult to remove and could leave little bits of latex on your piece. The latex dries from the bottom up, so when the top surface of the latex starts to turn yellow, you can lift it up. Drying time will vary from about 15 minutes to two hours, depending on temperature and humidity (Pieces can be placed in the sun or in front of a fan to accelerate drying time). Use a needle tool to gently lift an edge of the latex, then pull gently but firmly with your fingers to remove the latex. Make sure to wear a dust mask when removing the latex. Dry glaze particles on top of the latex can create a lot of dust when pulling it off. On some occasions, the latex resist can pull up at the edges if it is left on too long, perhaps overnight or longer. (If the piece with the latex on it is already glazed, this isn’t a big issue, but don’t create detailed latex resist patterns and then plan to apply the glaze the next morning.) Although it is not recommended, latex can be left on a piece during the firing (not large areas, but little bits and pieces that might not pull off when the latex is applied too thin), but it leaves an ashy residue, and it is not known if it produces harmful or toxic fumes. Tips from Marie Deborah Wald, longtime latex resist user (paraphrased & compiled by Bracker’s).

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Darvan is a deflocculant and used to disperse ceramic suspensions to minimize their water content. It is a liquid alternative to the long popular sodium silicate. About twice as much is required typically (0.4-0.5%) however Darvan does offer a number of advantages. Typically soda ash is not needed as a complement and Darvan does not attack plaster molds. In addition slurries are much less sensitive to over deflocculation and are more stable. It is thus easier to reprocess scrap. However a number of engineers still prefer using a sodium silicate:soda ash mix to control thixotropic properties better, especially if little scrap is being added. Darvan No. 7 is a high molecular weight, long chain polymer that has been used successfully as a general purpose dispersing agent for both ceramic bodies and glazes. Like 811 and 812, this poly-electrolyte shows the advantages mentioned above. Slips prepared with Darvan No. 7 show little tendency to thicken on standing (thus this version is considered better for glazes). The active agent in Darvan is polyacrylic acid. Its molecules are negatively charged along their length. They attach to clay particles and cause them to repel each other. There are two cautions with this material: -It has a shelf life of two years -Some types cannot go below 40 degrees F without detrimental effects on their performance. Darvan definitely cannot be frozen. In either of these cases, it will simply not disperse your slurry as expected.

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Darvan is a deflocculant and used to disperse ceramic suspensions to minimize their water content. It is a liquid alternative to the long popular sodium silicate. About twice as much is required typically (0.4-0.5%) however Darvan does offer a number of advantages. Typically soda ash is not needed as a complement and Darvan does not attack plaster molds. In addition slurries are much less sensitive to over deflocculation and are more stable. It is thus easier to reprocess scrap. However a number of engineers still prefer using a sodium silicate:soda ash mix to control thixotropic properties better, especially if little scrap is being added. Darvan 811 is a low molecular weight short chain polymer for use in vitreous and semivitreous bodies and glazes. In comparison to the conventional soda ash-sodium silicate system, these polyelectrolytes produce slips with longer casting range, higher solids content, improved viscosity stability, fewer "soda" or "hard spots", and significantly increased mold life. Slips also tend to reclaim better without the need for constant adjustments with more deflocculant. The active agent in Darvan is polyacrylic acid. Its molecules are negatively charged along their length. They attach to clay particles and cause them to repel each other. There are two cautions with this material: -It has a shelf life of two years -Some types cannot go below 40 degrees F without detrimental effects on their performance. Darvan definitely cannot be frozen. In either of these cases, it will simply not disperse your slurry as expected.

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This white paste is an excellent mending material for bisque that can be used to bond pieces together or fill up broken cavities. Bisque Fix can be colored to match the bisque using metal oxides or ceramic stains. After applying with a spatula, fire to the temperature of the clay and glaze that you are using -- up to Cone 10 (2381°F, 1305°C). Important Storage Note:Bisque fix is and air set concrete type product. There is a way to keep it longer. After you have used it and are ready to put it away, put a thin layer of water in the jar then recap and store. When you go to use it again pour off the water, remix and apply as normal.

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NOTE: The wax resist is colored with a pink or purple tint (that burns out completely), but the actual shade varies by batch. Recently we were sent a sample of the Mr. Mark’s Wax On. We enjoyed testing this wax resist and found it to be excellent for precision application on bisque fired ware. The light purple color, which completely burns out, makes it easy to see as you are applying it. The wax brushes on smoothly and dries quickly – about 5 minutes! The special hardening agent in this wax also ensures that any glaze that drips over onto the wax will wipe off easily with a wet sponge. Mr. Mark’s Wax On also works exceptionally well for the “Wax and Wipe” technique on leather-hard or bone dry clay. Apply the wax directly onto your un-bisque fired piece, (I tested it on both a fresh slab and on a bone dry piece), allow it to dry, then use a sponge to remove the clay from the bare places. The wax seals over the clay underneath it, leaving those areas raised. After bisque-firing, you’re left with a nice embossed (or debossed) texture. Mr. Marks’ Wax ON is a wax resist product that contains a special hardener that quickly sets the wax. It was created to eliminate problematic dripping and tacky surfaces when applying wax. Now you can decorate with wax during glazing without worrying about pesky smudges and sticky fingers. It is ideal for creating detailed, precise surface decoration on bisqueware and can be applied with either a brush or slip applicator. The pink/purple color allows you to easily visualize where wax is applied. However, the color burns out in the firing, just like regular wax. Wax ON should be stored at room temperature and mixed well before use. Brushes and tools used for application of Wax ON should be washed after use.

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